It was indeed a very Merry Christmas and I have every intention of making it a very happy (and productive and memorable) new year.
My Christmas started off with an early wake up call so that I could have ample time to travel to suok, by foot (since there is a whole in the tube of my front bicycle tire and I have yet gained enough energy and confindence to fix it). But before I headed out, I opened my presents and cards to find an amazing “Twas the Night Before Christmas record-a-book” narrated by tow of my favorite people in the world (Leeann and Erin). With the turn of each page, I was reminded of the many Christmas memories I’ve had with family and friends. After, indulging in a bit of Christmas music…I set out to go to suok.
I had a tight schedule if I was going to buy all the last minute items I needed to make cous cous, tagine, chocolate chip cookies, tea, etc. So I left the house at 9:45 to head to souk. It has been a while since I’ve gone to souk, without the help of my Peace Corps issued bicycle. I found myself stopping to take more pictures (something that I have done very little of in the last six months) and having time to greet more people than usual. It was a friendly reminder that the convenience of a bicycle eliminates most of the small talk/conversations that would have occurred if I happened to be walking in the same direction as someone else and we became walking buddies for a bit. Although yesterday I was crunched for time, so I didn’t have time to stop by the river to say hello to the women who were washing their carpets and clothes.
When I arrived a suok, I got right down to business. My list included:
ü Bread (for the tajine dish)
ü A tajine dish (since I have failed to buy one to date, I usually eat tajines at other people’s houses)
ü Sugar (for the Moroccan tea)
ü A serving tray (for the tea glasses and tea kettle)\
ü 2kilos of chicken (from the butcher) Sidenote: I couldn’t find my usually “chicken guy” who butchers the chicken in the morning and then brings it to souk-so its fresh-so I had to use a new guy who failed to take out the insides of the chicken, which left me praying that I didn’t burst the gall bladder as I chopped away at the chicken)
ü A 10 durham cell phone recharge card
ü ½ kilo of oranges (for dessert)
There were a few other items I wanted (white flour, vanilla sugar, brown sugar, etc.) but I either forgot about them or they weren’t available at suok. Half way through my shopping adventures, I met up with a teacher and a friend, who is an anthropologist from the states, at a coffee shop, to say one final goodbye. The anthropologist has been a huge help, in teaching me more about the region and introducing me to families, but she has also opened her home to me when I go into the nearest town. I’m sad to see her go, but I have been so thankful for the times that I have been able to spend with her and her family. The farewell was even sweeter, when I found out that the teacher (who was also the anthropologists field assistant) offered to tutor me in Tashlaheit. After 8 months on the mountain top, I’ve finally found someone local, within an hour walking distance, that can help me with my language. This is a huge relief because I had preveiously been traveling to the nearest suok town (which is 1.5 hours away-with limited transport times, leaving at 6am in the morning and returning at 2pm the same day) to fit in tutoring once a week.
After our farewell tea and finishing a few more errands. I was off to head back home. The next couple of hours seem to have flown by. But in them, I decided that I didn’t have the time (or the stove space) to make both a tajine and cous cous (which takes 3 hours to cook to completion) and make tea. So I decided to make one big tajine and Moroccan tea (to be accompanied by the banana bread and carrot cake that the girls and I baked the night before). After 3.5 hours of cooking, trying to remember how my host mother makes tajine, supervising al the kids that came in and out of my house to color with markers (which I forgot would stain their hands…opps…good thing I had color pencils too), breaking up several sibling slapping sessions, setting up the “Moroccan room”, and then waiting waiting waiting for my guest to come. We finally started serving tea at 3pm. The carrot cake and banana bread was a hit and my first batch of tea was amazing. One of the girls (Samira) had five cups. The next batch was far too sweet (I guess I learned from my host dad who adds several grams of sugar to his batchs of tea). Then came the main dish…and if I do say so myself, it was delicious. There was enough food for everyone (although I could have added more chicken) and everyone enjoyed it. It tasted “Moroccan”, therefore I was pleased. It gave me the confidence to know that I CAN make Moroccan food that people like and I can host meals at my house. The last lunch party that I had for one of my neighbors, we made cous cous. It was delicious, but it was also primarily made by my neighbor and I simply “assisted”. With 2011, I’m ready to invite more people over for tea and meals. I think this will be one more small step in my continous integration into the community.
Afterwards (around 4pm), I invited everyone into the living room to see the Christmas decorations and to read/translate “Twas the Night before Christmas” to the kids. They really got a kick out of hearing the voices of Leeann and Erin read them the story. After that, I delivered the rest of the banana bread and carrot cake to some neighbors and friends. They all seemed happy, except for one neighbor that quickly pointed out that the bottom of the banana bread was burnt….oh well, if I learned anything in 2010-I’ve learned that I can’t please everyone.
Today is Sunday and it feels great knowing that I’ve had a full, productive week (where I’ve accomplished personal, professional, and cultural goals). Today will be full of back work…filling out Peace Corps forms, cleaning the house from yesterday, reading, and possibly a trip to a friends house (if I really feel motivated) for some henna). Knowing that, I am fully enjoying the relaxation of Sunday and the lack of a schedule. Some weeks, I feel like everyday is a Sunday…therefore, when Sunday does roll around, I can’t truly relax, knowing that I didn’t accomplish everything I wanted to that week. Nonetheless, tomorrow begins a new week (and I’ll begin it with a trip into Ouarzazate to get my cat neutered). I’ll also be meeting one of the new PCVs (Peace Corps volunteers) in the region. There are a lot of errands to run, but I welcome the change of pace (at least for 24 hours), although I’m not looking forward to the 5am wake up call to catch the tranzit (hopefully I can find a tranzit that will come at 7am-best case scenario). We’ll see…
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
December 24, 2010
December 24, 2010
Today was one of those Peace Corps days that could not seem to be get any better. The only way that it would have gotten better is if I would have gotten out of my bed earlier to accomplish more things (but then I would have lost that extra half an hour of sleep that made me feel so rested).
It’s 8:00pm and I’m exhausted! I started the day approximately 12 hours ago by beginning a new book entitled “Moroccan Households In the World Economy: Labor and Inequality in a Berber Village” by anthropologist, David Crawford. Although I didn’t get far in the book before I jumped out of bed to maximize the morning, before the noon-time prayer (which marks the beginning of the Muslim Holy Day and prayer). Sidenote: Friday afternoon is full of prayer and it is therefore a difficult time to have meetings or get any official work done. Although I didn’t read past the introduction, it was a breath of fresh air to hear the authors description of the country, the everyday life of Amazirgh (aka Berber) lifestyle in rural villages (like mine) and to know that the picture I painted in my mind is fairly accurate. For all I know, the village that he based his ethnography in could have been one of the tiny villages that I’ve passed during my trips to and from Marrakech as I pass the High Atlas Mountains. Reading is a nice way to start the day (especially since I’m usually too tired to concentrate at the end of the evening. So today was nice because I have officially decided that one of my new years resolutions is to Read at least four books every month. I have this in bold because if I email/skype/or see you at some point in 2011, please ask me how this goal is going. I’m going to bold all of my new years resolutions from here on out, in hopes that some of you will help keep me accountable. Another new years resolution is to write at least four blog posts every week. I think we all know why this resolution is not only appropriate, but necessary (reference the history of blog posts over the past eight months and it will become apparent). But I digress,
After a quick read over a nice cup of Early Grey tea (a comfort that I enjoy every morning), I hoped out of bed and got a move on things. After “the usual” (warm up water to wash my face and brush my teeth), take down dry clothes from my clothes line, and straighten up my room. I was out the door and walking to the fields to accomplish goal 1: talk with the mocadim (one of the village leaders) about the future “water treatment project” that I am hoping to do during the winter months. Although I have undoubtedly met the mocadim before, I wanted to officially introduce myself and let him know that I hoped to have a meeting with him soon. It’s always nice to give people a heads up the “tarumeet” (foreigner) is planning on having on asking them for a meeting-otherwise, most of the meeting is filled with stares and questioning of my intentions. He turned out to be a lovely man and invited me in for tea. At about 11:30, I left (knowing that I was the only thing holding him back from getting ready to pray at the mosque). So I left and headed to another village (where another Peace Corps volunteer is stationed. Although the walk is usually no more than an hour (from my house), it took much longer because I decided to text and walk at the same time, which I realized was a bad idea when I look at the cliff (overlooking the fields) that I could have easily fallen off of. So, my walk was interrupted several times to respond to texts and receive a quick phone call from the wonderful vet (who is going to neuter my cat) and from another PCV who is going on the New Years Camel trek with me.
When I finally arrived in the village, I was surprised to find a teacher at the school (since there was a national teachers strike, for one of the unions) and was able to get some input on how some of the teachers and myself can request funding to get supplies for a potential project. We’d like to paint the school with pictures of healthy living (respecting the environment, health messages, and sports scenes). Hopefully this advice will work out and the Ministry of Education will grant us the money. After leaving the school, I was invited into a house for tea and ended up helping crack open and sort almonds (one of my favorite activities). I ended up staying for lunch and then headed back to my house. Before I walked back through the fields, I saw a family that has been wonderful to me and stopped to drop off a few oranges for them. Although they tried to have me stay for lunch, I insisted that I needed to study some Tashlaheit and get ready for my big Christmas lunch (although I didn’t end up studying).
At three, I was home and my dad called right as I got in. I was going to get to talk with both of my brothers at the same time (they were both home for Christmas). Since I wasn’t doing anything, he would call back in five minutes…well, the madness started 3 minutes later. I heard a knock on the door to see Fatima, one of my neighbors, outside. She wanted to help me prepare for the Christmas lunch and so I invited her in. I knew she wouldn’t mind me talking to my family because (in my experience) my Moroccan community members seldom have a problem having full blown phone conversations in the presence of other people. Two minutes after Fatima sat down in my kitchen, another knock came at the door. I assumed it was her cousins, who often come by to hang out at my house, so I went to the door without putting my tajlabeat (long shirt/robe) on…however, it was my landlord and a painter who had come to clean my door. It sounded like an odd request, but (hey) he owns the house. The next minute I get the call and Fatima’s eyes start to roll into the back of her head after minute 2 of the call. In the meantime, my landlord and the painter now need a broom and four more men have joined them at the door. Who would have thought painting a door would be a social event (or that it would take an HOUR). I go back to my phone conversation and then realize I didn’t put the cats in the room, so (in the hopes of them not getting loose while the door is open) I run outside to put them in some rooms. As I walk past the door, I’m told that two girls (maybe, age 6) are waiting for me outside. As I go outside, I see now 10 people outside of the door, including my landlords mom (who is like my host grandmother), her daughter, and several more men/boys. Now that women are outside, I have to do the formal greetings (luckily I have my tajlabeet on by this time…it’s pretty shameful for me to walk around with pants and long sleeve shirt that doesn’t fully cover my bottom…even though the only skin showing is my face, neck, and hands). After a few greetings, I finish the conversation with my dad and brothers (a record 15 minutes of family time) and go outside to apologize for my lack of presence. By then, another one of my neighbors is ready to help me back for my Christmas lunch tomorrow and I have to fully explain Christmas (well, explain it in a very basic way that makes it seem like the equivalent of the large Moroccan holiday, Laid Kebir). By the end of the conversation, the painter has moved to the inside of the door and I am ready to start doing the dishes and then bake.
Although I think it was a great idea to have the neighborhood kids help me bake the carrot cake and banana bread for tomorrow’s celebration, I had no idea how impatient they would be NOR that it would take three times as long to get anything done. It turns out my sink was clogged and wasn’t draining water, my neighbors tend to cut carrots and apples which makes it a 97% guarantee that they will be missing afterwards, and I have never heard a group of kids say “it’s my turn to stir” or “you only get to mash one banana, not two” more than I had within that two hour period. All in all, we were able to finish the carrot cake (minus baking it) before sun down and everyone learned new skills (e.g. shredding carrots, whipping eggs, cooking apples, and other techniques that aren’t apart of traditional cooking in my village). It was a fun experience and I think the girls really like it…but I could hear my language going 4pm. My brain was on overload, so much was going on, and I start to slur my Tashleheit when I go back and forth between English and Tashlaheit within a short period of time. Needless to say, by 6:00, the banana bread batches were done and the carrot cakes were ready to be put in the oven…and I was jamming away to Christmas music in my kitchen. I didn’t think that spending Christmas “alone, in my site” would be all that momentous…but today, I realized how many people I am really able to share this holiday with (including my family back home). I truly am very excite for my first Moroccan Christmas tomorrow (including the two presents under my stockings (yes, I fully decorated my living room with reefs, tinsel, a fireplace scene-complete with three stockings for me and my cats, and Christmas, ornaments, etc.) from Leeann and Erin (two friends that are far beyond my deserving).
As excited as I am tomorrow, I know that it is going to be non-stop craziness (from the moment I get up in the morning to go shopping for last minute ingredients to the time when I close my door to everyone and can relax). Nonetheless, I promise to take tons of pictures and try not to get too stressed out, which will be hard to do because I’m making two Moroccan dishes that I’ve never made solo before (cous cous and tajine)…oh and then there is the constant language battle (man, I wish I would have studied today). All in all, what made today so great is that I got the best of all worlds. I was able to get some work done (and meet some key players in future projects), I made a new friend and enjoyed a favorite activity, I saw a family that I love, I shared a part of my family tradition with my Moroccan family, I got my door painted (it’s tourquoise!), I made the day of four girls by letting them help me make deserts, and I feel perfectly content with my life in Morocco today. Oh and I forgot one…I feel at home in Morocco. That’s something that is becoming more and more common each day, but I don’t ever, ever want to take it for granted. As the year 2011 quickly approaches, I pledge to remember that the life I am living is something that I’ve wanted to experience since I was in 8th grade. I may never get this opportunity again, even if I do (if for some reason I’m crazy enough-and fit enough- to do Peace Corps post-retirement) I want to live every single day of my Peace Corps service like it’s my last day in Peace Corps. I think I will be more content, more productive, and much more appreciative of everyday. With that said…I’m going to enjoy my Moroccan bed and my two wonderful cats (who make for wonderful feat warmers during the winter months (thank goodness for their nature instinct to cuddle).
Today was one of those Peace Corps days that could not seem to be get any better. The only way that it would have gotten better is if I would have gotten out of my bed earlier to accomplish more things (but then I would have lost that extra half an hour of sleep that made me feel so rested).
It’s 8:00pm and I’m exhausted! I started the day approximately 12 hours ago by beginning a new book entitled “Moroccan Households In the World Economy: Labor and Inequality in a Berber Village” by anthropologist, David Crawford. Although I didn’t get far in the book before I jumped out of bed to maximize the morning, before the noon-time prayer (which marks the beginning of the Muslim Holy Day and prayer). Sidenote: Friday afternoon is full of prayer and it is therefore a difficult time to have meetings or get any official work done. Although I didn’t read past the introduction, it was a breath of fresh air to hear the authors description of the country, the everyday life of Amazirgh (aka Berber) lifestyle in rural villages (like mine) and to know that the picture I painted in my mind is fairly accurate. For all I know, the village that he based his ethnography in could have been one of the tiny villages that I’ve passed during my trips to and from Marrakech as I pass the High Atlas Mountains. Reading is a nice way to start the day (especially since I’m usually too tired to concentrate at the end of the evening. So today was nice because I have officially decided that one of my new years resolutions is to Read at least four books every month. I have this in bold because if I email/skype/or see you at some point in 2011, please ask me how this goal is going. I’m going to bold all of my new years resolutions from here on out, in hopes that some of you will help keep me accountable. Another new years resolution is to write at least four blog posts every week. I think we all know why this resolution is not only appropriate, but necessary (reference the history of blog posts over the past eight months and it will become apparent). But I digress,
After a quick read over a nice cup of Early Grey tea (a comfort that I enjoy every morning), I hoped out of bed and got a move on things. After “the usual” (warm up water to wash my face and brush my teeth), take down dry clothes from my clothes line, and straighten up my room. I was out the door and walking to the fields to accomplish goal 1: talk with the mocadim (one of the village leaders) about the future “water treatment project” that I am hoping to do during the winter months. Although I have undoubtedly met the mocadim before, I wanted to officially introduce myself and let him know that I hoped to have a meeting with him soon. It’s always nice to give people a heads up the “tarumeet” (foreigner) is planning on having on asking them for a meeting-otherwise, most of the meeting is filled with stares and questioning of my intentions. He turned out to be a lovely man and invited me in for tea. At about 11:30, I left (knowing that I was the only thing holding him back from getting ready to pray at the mosque). So I left and headed to another village (where another Peace Corps volunteer is stationed. Although the walk is usually no more than an hour (from my house), it took much longer because I decided to text and walk at the same time, which I realized was a bad idea when I look at the cliff (overlooking the fields) that I could have easily fallen off of. So, my walk was interrupted several times to respond to texts and receive a quick phone call from the wonderful vet (who is going to neuter my cat) and from another PCV who is going on the New Years Camel trek with me.
When I finally arrived in the village, I was surprised to find a teacher at the school (since there was a national teachers strike, for one of the unions) and was able to get some input on how some of the teachers and myself can request funding to get supplies for a potential project. We’d like to paint the school with pictures of healthy living (respecting the environment, health messages, and sports scenes). Hopefully this advice will work out and the Ministry of Education will grant us the money. After leaving the school, I was invited into a house for tea and ended up helping crack open and sort almonds (one of my favorite activities). I ended up staying for lunch and then headed back to my house. Before I walked back through the fields, I saw a family that has been wonderful to me and stopped to drop off a few oranges for them. Although they tried to have me stay for lunch, I insisted that I needed to study some Tashlaheit and get ready for my big Christmas lunch (although I didn’t end up studying).
At three, I was home and my dad called right as I got in. I was going to get to talk with both of my brothers at the same time (they were both home for Christmas). Since I wasn’t doing anything, he would call back in five minutes…well, the madness started 3 minutes later. I heard a knock on the door to see Fatima, one of my neighbors, outside. She wanted to help me prepare for the Christmas lunch and so I invited her in. I knew she wouldn’t mind me talking to my family because (in my experience) my Moroccan community members seldom have a problem having full blown phone conversations in the presence of other people. Two minutes after Fatima sat down in my kitchen, another knock came at the door. I assumed it was her cousins, who often come by to hang out at my house, so I went to the door without putting my tajlabeat (long shirt/robe) on…however, it was my landlord and a painter who had come to clean my door. It sounded like an odd request, but (hey) he owns the house. The next minute I get the call and Fatima’s eyes start to roll into the back of her head after minute 2 of the call. In the meantime, my landlord and the painter now need a broom and four more men have joined them at the door. Who would have thought painting a door would be a social event (or that it would take an HOUR). I go back to my phone conversation and then realize I didn’t put the cats in the room, so (in the hopes of them not getting loose while the door is open) I run outside to put them in some rooms. As I walk past the door, I’m told that two girls (maybe, age 6) are waiting for me outside. As I go outside, I see now 10 people outside of the door, including my landlords mom (who is like my host grandmother), her daughter, and several more men/boys. Now that women are outside, I have to do the formal greetings (luckily I have my tajlabeet on by this time…it’s pretty shameful for me to walk around with pants and long sleeve shirt that doesn’t fully cover my bottom…even though the only skin showing is my face, neck, and hands). After a few greetings, I finish the conversation with my dad and brothers (a record 15 minutes of family time) and go outside to apologize for my lack of presence. By then, another one of my neighbors is ready to help me back for my Christmas lunch tomorrow and I have to fully explain Christmas (well, explain it in a very basic way that makes it seem like the equivalent of the large Moroccan holiday, Laid Kebir). By the end of the conversation, the painter has moved to the inside of the door and I am ready to start doing the dishes and then bake.
Although I think it was a great idea to have the neighborhood kids help me bake the carrot cake and banana bread for tomorrow’s celebration, I had no idea how impatient they would be NOR that it would take three times as long to get anything done. It turns out my sink was clogged and wasn’t draining water, my neighbors tend to cut carrots and apples which makes it a 97% guarantee that they will be missing afterwards, and I have never heard a group of kids say “it’s my turn to stir” or “you only get to mash one banana, not two” more than I had within that two hour period. All in all, we were able to finish the carrot cake (minus baking it) before sun down and everyone learned new skills (e.g. shredding carrots, whipping eggs, cooking apples, and other techniques that aren’t apart of traditional cooking in my village). It was a fun experience and I think the girls really like it…but I could hear my language going 4pm. My brain was on overload, so much was going on, and I start to slur my Tashleheit when I go back and forth between English and Tashlaheit within a short period of time. Needless to say, by 6:00, the banana bread batches were done and the carrot cakes were ready to be put in the oven…and I was jamming away to Christmas music in my kitchen. I didn’t think that spending Christmas “alone, in my site” would be all that momentous…but today, I realized how many people I am really able to share this holiday with (including my family back home). I truly am very excite for my first Moroccan Christmas tomorrow (including the two presents under my stockings (yes, I fully decorated my living room with reefs, tinsel, a fireplace scene-complete with three stockings for me and my cats, and Christmas, ornaments, etc.) from Leeann and Erin (two friends that are far beyond my deserving).
As excited as I am tomorrow, I know that it is going to be non-stop craziness (from the moment I get up in the morning to go shopping for last minute ingredients to the time when I close my door to everyone and can relax). Nonetheless, I promise to take tons of pictures and try not to get too stressed out, which will be hard to do because I’m making two Moroccan dishes that I’ve never made solo before (cous cous and tajine)…oh and then there is the constant language battle (man, I wish I would have studied today). All in all, what made today so great is that I got the best of all worlds. I was able to get some work done (and meet some key players in future projects), I made a new friend and enjoyed a favorite activity, I saw a family that I love, I shared a part of my family tradition with my Moroccan family, I got my door painted (it’s tourquoise!), I made the day of four girls by letting them help me make deserts, and I feel perfectly content with my life in Morocco today. Oh and I forgot one…I feel at home in Morocco. That’s something that is becoming more and more common each day, but I don’t ever, ever want to take it for granted. As the year 2011 quickly approaches, I pledge to remember that the life I am living is something that I’ve wanted to experience since I was in 8th grade. I may never get this opportunity again, even if I do (if for some reason I’m crazy enough-and fit enough- to do Peace Corps post-retirement) I want to live every single day of my Peace Corps service like it’s my last day in Peace Corps. I think I will be more content, more productive, and much more appreciative of everyday. With that said…I’m going to enjoy my Moroccan bed and my two wonderful cats (who make for wonderful feat warmers during the winter months (thank goodness for their nature instinct to cuddle).
A Refelection on 2010: 9 months in Morocco
It has been a journey (to say the least) to travel across the Atlantic, adapt to a new culture and language, and seek to learn more about me (in the midst of learning about a whole new World)
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