December 24, 2010

December 24, 2010

Today was one of those Peace Corps days that could not seem to be get any better. The only way that it would have gotten better is if I would have gotten out of my bed earlier to accomplish more things (but then I would have lost that extra half an hour of sleep that made me feel so rested).

It’s 8:00pm and I’m exhausted! I started the day approximately 12 hours ago by beginning a new book entitled “Moroccan Households In the World Economy: Labor and Inequality in a Berber Village” by anthropologist, David Crawford. Although I didn’t get far in the book before I jumped out of bed to maximize the morning, before the noon-time prayer (which marks the beginning of the Muslim Holy Day and prayer). Sidenote: Friday afternoon is full of prayer and it is therefore a difficult time to have meetings or get any official work done. Although I didn’t read past the introduction, it was a breath of fresh air to hear the authors description of the country, the everyday life of Amazirgh (aka Berber) lifestyle in rural villages (like mine) and to know that the picture I painted in my mind is fairly accurate. For all I know, the village that he based his ethnography in could have been one of the tiny villages that I’ve passed during my trips to and from Marrakech as I pass the High Atlas Mountains. Reading is a nice way to start the day (especially since I’m usually too tired to concentrate at the end of the evening. So today was nice because I have officially decided that one of my new years resolutions is to Read at least four books every month. I have this in bold because if I email/skype/or see you at some point in 2011, please ask me how this goal is going. I’m going to bold all of my new years resolutions from here on out, in hopes that some of you will help keep me accountable. Another new years resolution is to write at least four blog posts every week. I think we all know why this resolution is not only appropriate, but necessary (reference the history of blog posts over the past eight months and it will become apparent). But I digress,

After a quick read over a nice cup of Early Grey tea (a comfort that I enjoy every morning), I hoped out of bed and got a move on things. After “the usual” (warm up water to wash my face and brush my teeth), take down dry clothes from my clothes line, and straighten up my room. I was out the door and walking to the fields to accomplish goal 1: talk with the mocadim (one of the village leaders) about the future “water treatment project” that I am hoping to do during the winter months. Although I have undoubtedly met the mocadim before, I wanted to officially introduce myself and let him know that I hoped to have a meeting with him soon. It’s always nice to give people a heads up the “tarumeet” (foreigner) is planning on having on asking them for a meeting-otherwise, most of the meeting is filled with stares and questioning of my intentions. He turned out to be a lovely man and invited me in for tea. At about 11:30, I left (knowing that I was the only thing holding him back from getting ready to pray at the mosque). So I left and headed to another village (where another Peace Corps volunteer is stationed. Although the walk is usually no more than an hour (from my house), it took much longer because I decided to text and walk at the same time, which I realized was a bad idea when I look at the cliff (overlooking the fields) that I could have easily fallen off of. So, my walk was interrupted several times to respond to texts and receive a quick phone call from the wonderful vet (who is going to neuter my cat) and from another PCV who is going on the New Years Camel trek with me.

When I finally arrived in the village, I was surprised to find a teacher at the school (since there was a national teachers strike, for one of the unions) and was able to get some input on how some of the teachers and myself can request funding to get supplies for a potential project. We’d like to paint the school with pictures of healthy living (respecting the environment, health messages, and sports scenes). Hopefully this advice will work out and the Ministry of Education will grant us the money. After leaving the school, I was invited into a house for tea and ended up helping crack open and sort almonds (one of my favorite activities). I ended up staying for lunch and then headed back to my house. Before I walked back through the fields, I saw a family that has been wonderful to me and stopped to drop off a few oranges for them. Although they tried to have me stay for lunch, I insisted that I needed to study some Tashlaheit and get ready for my big Christmas lunch (although I didn’t end up studying).

At three, I was home and my dad called right as I got in. I was going to get to talk with both of my brothers at the same time (they were both home for Christmas). Since I wasn’t doing anything, he would call back in five minutes…well, the madness started 3 minutes later. I heard a knock on the door to see Fatima, one of my neighbors, outside. She wanted to help me prepare for the Christmas lunch and so I invited her in. I knew she wouldn’t mind me talking to my family because (in my experience) my Moroccan community members seldom have a problem having full blown phone conversations in the presence of other people. Two minutes after Fatima sat down in my kitchen, another knock came at the door. I assumed it was her cousins, who often come by to hang out at my house, so I went to the door without putting my tajlabeat (long shirt/robe) on…however, it was my landlord and a painter who had come to clean my door. It sounded like an odd request, but (hey) he owns the house. The next minute I get the call and Fatima’s eyes start to roll into the back of her head after minute 2 of the call. In the meantime, my landlord and the painter now need a broom and four more men have joined them at the door. Who would have thought painting a door would be a social event (or that it would take an HOUR). I go back to my phone conversation and then realize I didn’t put the cats in the room, so (in the hopes of them not getting loose while the door is open) I run outside to put them in some rooms. As I walk past the door, I’m told that two girls (maybe, age 6) are waiting for me outside. As I go outside, I see now 10 people outside of the door, including my landlords mom (who is like my host grandmother), her daughter, and several more men/boys. Now that women are outside, I have to do the formal greetings (luckily I have my tajlabeet on by this time…it’s pretty shameful for me to walk around with pants and long sleeve shirt that doesn’t fully cover my bottom…even though the only skin showing is my face, neck, and hands). After a few greetings, I finish the conversation with my dad and brothers (a record 15 minutes of family time) and go outside to apologize for my lack of presence. By then, another one of my neighbors is ready to help me back for my Christmas lunch tomorrow and I have to fully explain Christmas (well, explain it in a very basic way that makes it seem like the equivalent of the large Moroccan holiday, Laid Kebir). By the end of the conversation, the painter has moved to the inside of the door and I am ready to start doing the dishes and then bake.

Although I think it was a great idea to have the neighborhood kids help me bake the carrot cake and banana bread for tomorrow’s celebration, I had no idea how impatient they would be NOR that it would take three times as long to get anything done. It turns out my sink was clogged and wasn’t draining water, my neighbors tend to cut carrots and apples which makes it a 97% guarantee that they will be missing afterwards, and I have never heard a group of kids say “it’s my turn to stir” or “you only get to mash one banana, not two” more than I had within that two hour period. All in all, we were able to finish the carrot cake (minus baking it) before sun down and everyone learned new skills (e.g. shredding carrots, whipping eggs, cooking apples, and other techniques that aren’t apart of traditional cooking in my village). It was a fun experience and I think the girls really like it…but I could hear my language going 4pm. My brain was on overload, so much was going on, and I start to slur my Tashleheit when I go back and forth between English and Tashlaheit within a short period of time. Needless to say, by 6:00, the banana bread batches were done and the carrot cakes were ready to be put in the oven…and I was jamming away to Christmas music in my kitchen. I didn’t think that spending Christmas “alone, in my site” would be all that momentous…but today, I realized how many people I am really able to share this holiday with (including my family back home). I truly am very excite for my first Moroccan Christmas tomorrow (including the two presents under my stockings (yes, I fully decorated my living room with reefs, tinsel, a fireplace scene-complete with three stockings for me and my cats, and Christmas, ornaments, etc.) from Leeann and Erin (two friends that are far beyond my deserving).

As excited as I am tomorrow, I know that it is going to be non-stop craziness (from the moment I get up in the morning to go shopping for last minute ingredients to the time when I close my door to everyone and can relax). Nonetheless, I promise to take tons of pictures and try not to get too stressed out, which will be hard to do because I’m making two Moroccan dishes that I’ve never made solo before (cous cous and tajine)…oh and then there is the constant language battle (man, I wish I would have studied today). All in all, what made today so great is that I got the best of all worlds. I was able to get some work done (and meet some key players in future projects), I made a new friend and enjoyed a favorite activity, I saw a family that I love, I shared a part of my family tradition with my Moroccan family, I got my door painted (it’s tourquoise!), I made the day of four girls by letting them help me make deserts, and I feel perfectly content with my life in Morocco today. Oh and I forgot one…I feel at home in Morocco. That’s something that is becoming more and more common each day, but I don’t ever, ever want to take it for granted. As the year 2011 quickly approaches, I pledge to remember that the life I am living is something that I’ve wanted to experience since I was in 8th grade. I may never get this opportunity again, even if I do (if for some reason I’m crazy enough-and fit enough- to do Peace Corps post-retirement) I want to live every single day of my Peace Corps service like it’s my last day in Peace Corps. I think I will be more content, more productive, and much more appreciative of everyday. With that said…I’m going to enjoy my Moroccan bed and my two wonderful cats (who make for wonderful feat warmers during the winter months (thank goodness for their nature instinct to cuddle).